Designer Stitch Madison Dress

The Designer Stitch Madison Dress! This dress is beautiful, a very well drafted pattern meant for Ponte (de Roma) or similar double knits. While I do love the pattern, I will start with a warning that this pattern is NOT for beginners. There are a few tricky parts that make this good for intermediate sewists. And if you are looking for a challenge, this dress might be for you!

The Madison Dress does have a few options. Of course, you can color block it however you choose, the 1,2,3 color blocking I used is per the standard recommendation in the PDF, but you could certainly do just 2 colors, 1 color, or switch around where you put the colors. That's the fun and creative part about designing what you sew up! This is the fitted skirt style, but there is also a circle dress option with a color blocking line down the center front if you desire. Sleeve options are banded sleeveless, half sleeves, or full length sleeves.

Ponte is a lovely fabric, especially if you can get your hands on the quality kind. Did you see the article from the most recent Threads Magazine issue about Ponte (March 2020)? It talks about the material percentages to ensure that you get a Ponte Knit that is not like the stuff from the "1970s leisure suits" that has undesired qualities like poor recovery and a tendency to pill. The article stated that the best Ponte is one which has a high rayon content, nylon (as polyester pills), and a smaller stitch gauge (which can be inferred from fabric recovery characteristics).

However, I will say that while Ponte does have good qualities, like stability and smoothing lines over untoned body...it also show fit flaws very apparently. This is where making a dress like this becomes slightly more challenging. In a looser fabric, sometimes the wrinkles are less noticeable or can even add to the look of a garment. But in a fitted dress like this, the wrinkles are not so great.

I tested this pattern for Designer Stitch. So, I started by making a muslin (or toile as Ann of Designer Stitch calls the first draft of a garment).  I didn't have enough Ponte on hand, and so ended up making my toile mainly using a stretch denim. Unfortunately, I learned that the characteristics of stretch denim are very different from Ponte. The stretch denim is a looser and more relaxed fabric and so other than seeing that I needed to add 1/2" in length to the bodice of the dress since I have a longer than average torso, it didn't really help.

Ignore my messy hair! Below is a fit photo for the toile. You can probably see that the top of the green color blocking is hitting above my natural waist. It should be right at the natural waist. So I ended up adding a half inch of length through all the panels just below the bust line. You may also be able to see that the dress is loose all over, but there is especially some loose fabric at my lower back.

So, after acquiring more Ponte at Joann's, I made another toile. This is anti-pill Ponte found near the athletic fabrics at my local Joann's. It was much more apparent in this remake about what needed to be done for fit. Look at the picture below and maybe you can find a few things that need fixing.

Ok, so to start with, I missed the instruction where the CB (center back) seam should be sewn at 5/8" instead of the standard 1/4" for the pattern. But, beyond that you can see all the excess fabric at my low back is accentuated in the Ponte. It does not look good. Whereas with the stretch denim, you could see the extra fabric there, but it didn't really look bad and wrinkled like this.

Another problem you might notice with the picture above is the wrinkle lines through the back sides at the bodice, and those lines resonate through the sleeves. It's just a bit too big for me there. I also want to point out that before adding the sleeves, those wrinkle lines were not there. It's super important for your toile to have all the pattern pieces you want to have in your final garment. Below is the picture without sleeves. No wrinkles!

The excess fabric at the lower back called for a sway back adjustment. I made a large dart across the back, but misunderstood as it was my first time making this adjustment, and put it in the wrong place! This placement changes the lines of the color blocking in the dress as you can see below. It did help the fabric in that area smooth out, but made the color block shorter in the back.

So I removed that stitching and redid it above the waist panels.

Keep in mind that when making alterations, you should always do only one thing at a time. If you look closely at the video above, taking the excess fabric from the mid back took some of the lines out from beneath the arms.

From here, I took in the side seams  a bit between the waist and hip and also along the side seams from the bust to bicep. At this point, my final was okayed by the designer and so I seam ripped the back two center panels out of the dress and cut two new ones with the wedge from the sway back adjustment removed.

I will say along the way I encountered a few other obstacles with this dress. Originally I had planned on white for the L shaped color blocked panels and then had to remove the two I inserted after realizing that they were see through. I also struggled a bit with making the 90 degree turn on L's as the fabric there will become puckered if they aren't done right. And lastly, matching up the color blocking along the side seams was difficult, and I ended up basting those areas with the sewing machine before using the serger to finish those seams. Summed up, me and my seam ripper became very friendly during this time.

But, I am proud of myself for persisting and finishing the garment. I learned a lot about fit and about how to alter a dress for my specific body. I also learned more about fabrics and even some new sewing techniques. I'd never done a v-neck neckline in the way that this pattern has you do that where the neckband seam line is aligned with the shoulder seam and the v is made with a small stitch at the center front.

If you are a more experienced sewist, I'm sure you will sew this up with no problems. If you are a confident beginner or intermediate sewist, this will be a fun challenge for you I'm sure! You can see the rest of the beautiful tester dresses on the Designer Stitch website HERE.

As always, feel free to ask questions or leave comments below. 

Happy Sewing!

This post contains affiliate links.

How to Sew a Different Kind of Inseam Pocket

While researching ways to make an inseam pocket lay more flat, I came across a short blog post about a different kind of inseam pocket. The pocket was a slightly different shape than I was used to seeing in patterns and was sewn in differently too. I was intrigued! So after studying the blog post pictures and info (which you can see HERE from a blog called, "The Beauty of a Stitch), I tried it out and I really like it. It's faster and easier to sew in and the pocket it sewn into the top of the garment (skirt, pants, etc.) at the waistband which really makes a big difference with lighter or stretchier knit fabrics.

I made a video about how to construct these pockets and also took pictures. The final pocket was sewn into the Rebecca Page Carolina Dress. You can see that post HERE. And below is a picture of the dress and pocket.

The way these pockets are done is different than the normal inseam pocket seen in most patterns. Normally for inseam pockets, you have a tear drop shaped pattern piece which you cut 2 mirror images of. You then attach one side of the pocket to the front of the garment at the side seam and one to the back at the same height (hopefully you measure well!). You might now top stitch, then sew down the side seam and around the pocket pieces to form the pocket bag. If using a serger, you might first use a sewing machine at the top and bottom of the pocket bag to ensure a clean turn so that the pockets lay flat at the top/bottom edges. You then may clip into the angle top and bottom at the turn to remove bulk.

This method for inseam pockets would be necessary if your garment is all one piece with no waist seam or band. So for a full dress or romper with no seam at the waist, for example, the normal inseam pocket would be the only option. But, for a garment with a seam at the waist, you might like this new way better.

So, the issue that can arise with the regular inseam pocket is in getting the details right - measuring down properly, getting the pieces of the pocket bag lined up perfectly, getting the turn right, and clipping the bulk well. Many times, the pocket bag will gape if done wrong and if not tacked down, the bag will move around inside the garment and cause the bulkiness around it, especially with less stable fabrics. With this new method, you take out some of the difficulty and have a pocket that can support more weight, and stays put.

 I will start by showing you the video I made and then explain the steps in pictures below that for clarity! Excuse my amateur video skills!

Here are the steps for construction in pictures and with descriptions:

Step 1 - Draft a slightly different shaped pocket piece

I used the Drama Dress pocket piece from George and Ginger as my base, but any similar looking inseam pocket piece will do (you can even just freehand draw this if you choose). Grab a piece or two of scrap paper and lay your pocket piece on top. You will then extend the top of the pocket piece up as high as you want the pocket to be down from the waist seam. (I personally like my pockets higher as to not put the opening of the pocket right at the widest part of my hips as this tends to make any pocket gape.) You will also add about a half an inch extra at the bottom of the pocket opening. This is where the pocket will be sewn into the side seam of the garment. You can use a french curve for this step or just make a nice curve at the top and bottom following along with your base pocket piece.Your new finished pocket piece will look like this:

As you can see in the picture above, there is a rectangle of interfacing along the flat side of the pocket. The interfacing is not necessary, but definitely recommended. I used shapeflex interfacing. Then there is a smaller rectangle which will become the cut out of your pocket opening. The size of the smaller rectangle will depend on - 1. How long you want your pocket opening to be. and 2. The seam allowance will determine the depth of the rectangle. You should make the depth of the rectangle 1/8" larger than your seam allowance. The seam allowance on the dress I made was 3/8", so I made the rectangle 1/2" wide.

Step 2 - Cut Out Pocket Pieces:

Cut out 2 mirrored pocket pieces each, so 4 total pocket pieces.

Step 3 - Assemble Pocket

A. Lay 1 pocket piece right sides together with the front of the garment as seen below. If using interfacing, it will be put on top wrong sides together with the pocket piece.

B. Sew a rectangle shape starting at the top of where the bag opening will be, and ending at the bottom of the bag opening. See step 1 for guidance on the width of the rectangle.

C. Cut around the rectangle and snip in at the 90 degree corners being careful not to cut through stitching.

D. Optionally, you can flip the top pocket piece to the back, wrong sides together, and topstitch 1/8" away from the edge as seen below. Only stitch inside the rectangle cut out area.

E. Flip the first pocket piece out to the side, then lay the mirrored pocket piece on top right sides together - clip/pin.

F. Sew around the outer curved edge of the pocket bag being sure to stop sewing at the bottom of the curve as seen below.

G. Now turn the pocket bag right side out and align the edge of the second pocket piece with the side seams of the front of the garment an pin/clip.

All three layers will be pinned at the top and bottom of the pocket bag, but the cut out you sewed and clipped, will stay out of the way as seen below.

 H. Lay the back of the garment right sides together on top of the front and pocket bag pieces and pin/clip.

I. Sew down the side seam being sure to catch all 4 layers at the top and bottom sides of the pocket bag. You can push the cut out of the pocket in to be sure not to catch that part as you sew down the side seams (like I forgot to! :)).

You are done! Now you can press the side seams if desired or top stitch the back of the pocket at the side seam if you choose.

You may want to baste the top of the pocket to the top of the garment for ease of attaching it to the waist.

While this may look like a lot of steps, it's really just because I broke it down completely, once you try the method out, it will come together faster than it seems!

I hope this tutorial made sense and helps you in your sewing endeavors! Feel free to ask questions below if you need any additional help or clarification.

Happy Sewing!

This post contains affiliate links.

So Jess Sew - Rebecca Page Carolina Dress

The Rebecca Page Carolina Dress! So I want to start out by saying, I absolutely love this dress. The details in the instructions are awesome, the dress came together well with no issues, and it fits like a glove. I used a floral rayon spandex for the bodice and a mint green DBP for the band and skirt. Both fabrics are from Knitpop (and the floral was in a scrap pack!).

The bodice is of course a cross over style (faux wrap). The pattern has the option for any sleeve length. The band can be gathered like in the version I made, but there is also an option for a flat band at the waist. And the skirt is an A-line shape that has options for above the knee, midi, or maxi lengths. I chose maxi length because I don't have enough long skirts for the cold weather. I decided on 3/4 length sleeves to keep warm, but not hot while inside, and the gathered band to add interest to the dress.

This pattern does not have an inseam pocket option, however I did add inseam pockets.  I actually inserted a different kind of side seam pocket which I outline in another blog post HERE. The new pockets are super cool and attach at the top of the skirt as well as the sides to keep the pocket supported. It is also easier, in my opinion, to sew into the skirt.

I really like how in the instructions, it has you add clear elastic to the shoulders and across the lined seam at the edge of the cross over panels. This is especially important depending on what types of fabric you choose. Since I used rayon spandex, this really helps the dress front stay put. I made a cross over top a while back that I really like, but I do have to fight with the front to keep it from showing too much. I will say, the way the instructions have you sew in the front pieces, makes this a very modest dress. If you wanted the V to be a bit lower, it would be easy to adjust the bodice by overlapping the pieces less.

You might notice from the pictures that there is a seam down the center back of the skirt. That's not actually written into the pattern, I just didn't have quite enough yardage to get the back skirt on the fold. This solution worked really well though. I had just enough fabric.

And there's my silly pose! I was able to use the new tripod I got for my birthday last month for these pictures, so it was fun to go around my yard finding different backdrops.

I plan to make another Carolina for the Summer months. It will probably end up sleeveless with the flat band and skirt to above the knee since sleeveless dresses tend to be my favorite outfits for the Summer.

You can find the pattern on the Rebecca Page website HERE. Hope you enjoyed this post. Let me know if you have any questions or comments below!

Happy Sewing!

This post contains affiliate links.

Online Garden Seed Resources

Today we are going to talk about seeds! Vegetable, fruit, and flower seeds to be specific. Starting most plants from seeds is not difficult, it just takes some time and a bit of care.

Before I go on, if you are interested in learning more about starting seeds inside, you can see my post about that - Seed Starting Indoors 101. Or if you want to try starting seeds early outdoors with mini diy greenhouses, you can see the Let's Go Hobby post on Winter Sowing.

Onto the seeds. So, how about all those terms you hear about or see on seeds packages like heirloom, organic, hybrid, or GMO? What do these terms really mean? Let's break it down:

Heirloom Seeds - Seeds taken from plants that have been passed down from generation to generation. They have not been purposefully modified in any way and are stable. Meaning, that you can collect the seeds of the plant and grow the exact same plant again. These seeds can also be referred to as open pollinating. Heirloom seeds must from suppliers, must have had cross-pollinating plants grown a certain distance away from plants of the same type (i.e. they can't grow two varieties of corn right next to each other) in order to result in the same variety being produced from the seed.

Organic Seeds - Seeds from plants that were grown using organic methods. No harsh chemical pesticides or genetically modified plants. Seeds labeled as "organic" have to be certified (and pay for that certification). So, sometimes plants are grown in an organic way, but because the farm hasn't been certified, it will not be labeled as such.

Hybrid Seeds - Seeds from plants of the same species that were crossbred on purpose or by chance. If seeds are listed as "hybrid" then they were modified purposefully for better characteristics (disease prevention, frost tolerance, earlier fruiting, etc.).  These are not genetically modified and not harmful at all. However, if you try to save the seeds, you may get something different than what you started with. One year I saved seeds from a spaghetti squash and upon planting those seeds next year, was surprised to find something resembling a zucchini spaghetti plant that never quite ripened. Maybe something like this has happened to you!  By the way, according to the National Garden Association, "Beets, brassicas, carrots, corn and squash are cross-pollinating, and so require isolation in the field to keep varieties true. Beans, lettuce, peas and tomatoes are self-pollinating, do not require isolation and are the easiest for seed-saving home gardeners to sustain year to year." This is great information for seed saving. I actually did save beet and carrot seeds last year, it will be interesting to see if the new plants end up looking the same next year!

GMO Seeds - Seeds purposefully modified in a lab setting to garner sought after characteristics. GMO seeds are not readily available to the home grower. These seeds are marketed to large scale farmers. 

Okay, so once you decide what types of seeds you are interested in buying, you will then have to decide which seeds you want. Of course, the what variety of seeds you buy is largely dependent on climate you live in, individual tastes you are catering too, and perhaps - whims! I mean, who knows when the desire to try bright red carrots or yellow tomatoes will hit you! I will say, there is sometimes merit to buying seeds locally since smaller nurseries will sometimes carry local seeds that do better in the specific climate you live in. In my experience though, unless  you live near a special seed supplier, most nurseries selections are lacking. And if you are looking for heirloom or organic seeds, they are in limited supply.



Here's a short list of seed suppliers. Which one you choose, will depend on your interests so I've included a small snippet about each link.

In alphabetical order:

Baker Creek Seeds (aka Rare Seeds) - A large variety  of heirloom seeds with many rare cultivars. Not certified organic, but most seeds are probably grown organically. They send out a basic free catalog each year if requested (which can also be viewed online). They also have a more in depth catalog with lots of fun stories, historical facts, and interesting pictures that may be sent free with a large order the previous year. Otherwise, it's available in the magazine section at many stores in the US. This is one of my favorites.

Burpee - A large commercial type seed supplier. Sells a mix of , heirloom, organic, and hybrid seeds as well as gardening supplies.

Fedco Seeds - Mostly certified organic seeds. Sells in small quantities, but also bulk for the small farmer.

Fruition Seeds - Organic seeds which are marketed as "seeds from the Northeast." Located in New York, they carry varieties that are better suited to shorter warm seasons and harsher winter conditions.

Hawthorne Farm - Organic seed supplier out of Ontario, Canada. Only ships to Canada.

High Mowing Seeds - Organic seed company out of Vermont. Ships to USA and Canada. Good variety of seeds common and rare. Largest variety of cover crops I've come across.

Johnny's Selected Seeds - Offers a good variety of organic, hybrid, and heirloom seeds. Operates out of Maine and will ship to  the US, Canada, and internationally where permissible.

Park Seed - Large scale commercial seed supplier out of South Carolina. Sells heirloom, organic, and hybrid seeds plus gardening supplies.

Seed Savers Exchange - A non-profit company out of Iowa that is dedicated to saving heirloom and open pollinated seeds (some are organic as well). They grow, save, and preserve seeds as well as distribute the seeds so that home growers can enjoy them and keep the seeds alive. As the name suggests, there is also a seed exchange program that anyone can participate in.

Tomato Fest - It's all about organic heirloom tomatoes from this supplier. A wide variety of different and fun tomatoes from a husband and wife team. They also have tomato and tomato/flower seed collections which could be fun.



Ah, I  almost forgot to mention the Let's Go Hobby post about seed storage and organization, you can see that post HERE.

2019 Garden

Here's to a great seed starting year for us all! 

Happy Gardening!

So Jess Sew - George and Ginger Romy Set

The George and Ginger Romy Set! This is a fun pattern, it's really like 4 patterns in one. The tank part has options for slim or flowy fit, plus either shirt length or dress length. And the bolero can be a gathered below the bust option or a straight over the bust option. In the pictures above, I made the flowy tank at shirt length and the gathered bolero, unlined, with long sleeves.
The fabric for the tank is one of my favorites from Knitpop. It's DBP (double brushed polyester) and I've made a dress, headband, scrunchies, this tank, plus a shirt for my Mother-in-Law. It's all gone now :(.  I actually didn't have quite enough for the back of the tank, so I color blocked with some fun lace I picked up at Walmart.

This is actually only my second V-neck shirt (read: I've been avoiding them!). Well, good thing instructions for G+G patterns are so good. I will say the only thing that the instructions didn't mention, that I did, was to baste the 'V' on before sewing all the way around the neckband. I basted twice before getting the look I wanted. 

Now onto the Bolero, I chose the unlined gathered version this time because I wanted to use less fabric (thus the unlined), and also have a nice little sweater top for cute dresses and shirts like this for colder weather. After making the bolero, I would say, if you have the fabric, I think the lined version would look more finished at the neck. In the unlined version, the top of the turtleneck is just flipped down and hemmed. If you do choose to do the unlined version, be sure to get matching thread! 

The fabric for the bolero was from a sweater knit bundle from Walmart. Nothing special, but it worked great for this project and also for the Rebecca Page Keeley Cardigan too!

If you wanted to show more skin, the other option on the bolero is higher so that you can see the v-neck of the tank while wear it. The bolero can also be made short sleeved or sleeveless if you just needed something to cover your shoulders!

With so many different options, this pattern can make a ton of looks. Be sure to check out the listing HERE for all the tester photos on this PDF pattern.

Let me know if you have any questions or comments below!!

Happy Sewing! 

This post contains affiliate links.

Egg Roll Soup GF/DF

This post is super exciting for me because it's a first. Guest post!! This comes from my good friend who is also an amazing cook. So, without further ado, here's Vanessa:

I am so excited to do a post for Let Go Hobby! Having Jess as my neighbor is like winning the house lottery. She got me into sewing, inspires me to be a better gardener, and both of us live outside all summer with our kids. When we're not working shovels, chasing our high energy kids together, practicing yoga after the kids are in bed, or talking non-stop about fabric and patterns, we talk food. If I remember correctly, our love of cooking brought us together.

I was asked to share my egg roll soup recipe. I love soup, nothing comes closer to a hug in food than soup. Having celiac disease, gluten free Chinese food is only found at home. Restaurant egg rolls and egg drop soup are definitely the foods I miss the most. So this recipe is a combination of the two. Though it started as a gluten free option, it’s enjoyable for everyone. It’s made with: lean ground turkey, beef gelatin (found on Amazon for $10) and chicken base which gives the soup a smooth texture that tastes like it took hours to make plus it’s loaded with veggies. I also will give a list of add-ins for endless variety and to accommodate everyone’s taste.

This soup comes in at: 208 calories, 17.2g of carbs, 6.8g of fat, and a whopping 23.6g of protein. I make this soup whenever I need a lunch reset. It’s great for dinners, but having a warm healthy meal waiting for me on a cold day is great. This recipe is made opposite of how soups are traditionally made. I like to sauté each ingredient before building the broth; that way every vegetable shines, and the broth has a smooth taste. I also tried to keep the ingredient list short and the items easy to find. This one pot meal might become your favorite faux take-out healthy cheat!

Egg Roll Soup (GF/DF)

Ingredients

1 LB Lean Ground Turkey 

¼ tsp Ground Ginger Powder

¼ tsp Granulated Garlic Powder

1 medium onion, diced

1 tsp oil (I use avocado, but any light flavor oil will do)

 1 10 oz bag of shredded carrots (or 3 large carrots shredded)

3 stocks of celery, diced

1 large head of cabbage, finely shredded

½ cup gelatin (you can omit this ingredient, I love adding collagen or gelatin for extra protein)   

3 Tbsp chicken base (you can use chicken broth instead of water and base. I like the flavor of chicken base   more)

2 Tbsp soy sauce or coconut aminos

Salt and Pepper

Instructions

Add turkey, ginger, garlic powder, ½ tsp salt, and ¼ tsp ground pepper in large soup pot on medium high heat. Brown turkey until cooked through.  Remove the cooked turkey and set aside. 
Add oil and onion and sauté onion until clear. Then add carrots, celery, and ¼ tsp of both salt and pepper. Continue to sauté until brown. Remove veggies from pot and set aside. 
Add cabbage and an additional ¼ tsp of both salt and pepper to pot. Sauté until brown pieces appear. 
Add turkey and vegetables back to the pot with the cooked cabbage. Add water until everything is covered by two inches. 
Add gelatin and stir until combined.
Add chicken base and soy sauce (or coconut aminos). Bring to a boil then remove from heat.
Taste and add more salt, pepper, soy sauce, and ginger to taste.

Click HERE to print.

Great add-ins are:

A few drops of Sesame seed oil
Cilantro
Chili garlic paste
Frozen peas
Soft boiled egg
Sriracha
Red pepper flakes

Use your imagination for tons of yummy taste combinations.

Thanks for your time!

Vanessa

So Jess Sew - Rebecca Page Keeley Cardigan

I've always wanted to have a duster cardigan. So when I saw that the RP Keeley Cardigan had a midi option, I was all about it! It's winter and I wear this a lot. True confession, I wear my bathrobe around the house when I'm cold. So if the doorbell rings, I have to throw my bathrobe off to answer the door not to look like I'm still in my pajamas in the afternoon! As you can tell, this baby was much needed. It's so warm. Cute to layer under a jacket with leggings and then your backside still stays warm and covered!

I didn't make any alterations to the fit and just made the size that fits my arms and upper body since I didn't want to add buttons on this make. The sleeves are set in, but with the loose sweater knit I used, it gives it a drop sleeve look. If you used a more stable knit, they would sit right up where they are supposed to. The pattern does have the options for a shorter length, buttons down the front, and a side vent.

The fabric is sweater knit that I scored from Walmart at a buck a yard. This longer version does take about 2 yards or so depending on your height and size, but so worth it. I've gotten a ton of complements while wearing it. It can glam up a simple outfit quickly.

The pattern is located HERE on the Rebecca Page website if you are interested in seeing it there! I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments.

Happy Sewing!!

This post contains affiliate links.

So Jess Sew - George and Ginger Campfire Set and Extra Top (Fall Collection)

I'm super excited to share my newest makes from the George and Ginger Fall Collection. There are three patterns in the collection - The Campfire Set, the Extra Top, and the October Dress. I made the Capri Romper from the Campfire set and the Extra top. I wish I had had time to make the October Dress too, but I've been so busy with other sewing! I do plan to buy and make that one soon though (it's so cute!).

The Campfire Set

Let's start with the Romper. I made this one out of ponte from Joann's. The fabric is a thick structured ponte in Navy flecked with white spots. I had 2 yards left over from making the GG Cold Snap Coat last winter. I couldn't fit the romper with pants, but the capri's just barely fit on the fabric!

The campfire set has a ton of options. There are basic capris, pants, romper skirt, romper capris, and romper pants. You can also add inseam pockets and the ties. The front and back are v shaped as well as the sides so it's really fun to wear something with some flair underneath (since you can really see it!)

The Extra Top!

This top pattern is truly "Extra" (which just means a little over the top in a good way). The options on this baby are amazing. Neckline options: Basic, Turtle neck, Scoop neck, V-neck. Sleeve options - basic set in sleeve in short, 3/4, or long; puff short sleeves). This is the crop version, or you can make it regular shirt length. And the extra parts? Bow, cascade ruffle, neckline accents, small flowers, and big flowers! Be sure to check out the listing HERE to see the graphics and tester photos. 

So my version is crop top, scoop neck, puff short sleeves, with bow. The fabric is a thinner ponte from Knitpop.

The crop top is shorter than other crop tops I've seen so that  a little skin shows while wearing the romper versions of the Campfire set. As you can see below:

Hope you enjoyed seeing my makes! You can see all the patterns on the G + G website HERE. As always:

Happy Sewing!

This post contains affiliate links.