How to Sew a Different Kind of Inseam Pocket

While researching ways to make an inseam pocket lay more flat, I came across a short blog post about a different kind of inseam pocket. The pocket was a slightly different shape than I was used to seeing in patterns and was sewn in differently too. I was intrigued! So after studying the blog post pictures and info (which you can see HERE from a blog called, "The Beauty of a Stitch), I tried it out and I really like it. It's faster and easier to sew in and the pocket it sewn into the top of the garment (skirt, pants, etc.) at the waistband which really makes a big difference with lighter or stretchier knit fabrics.

I made a video about how to construct these pockets and also took pictures. The final pocket was sewn into the Rebecca Page Carolina Dress. You can see that post HERE. And below is a picture of the dress and pocket.

The way these pockets are done is different than the normal inseam pocket seen in most patterns. Normally for inseam pockets, you have a tear drop shaped pattern piece which you cut 2 mirror images of. You then attach one side of the pocket to the front of the garment at the side seam and one to the back at the same height (hopefully you measure well!). You might now top stitch, then sew down the side seam and around the pocket pieces to form the pocket bag. If using a serger, you might first use a sewing machine at the top and bottom of the pocket bag to ensure a clean turn so that the pockets lay flat at the top/bottom edges. You then may clip into the angle top and bottom at the turn to remove bulk.

This method for inseam pockets would be necessary if your garment is all one piece with no waist seam or band. So for a full dress or romper with no seam at the waist, for example, the normal inseam pocket would be the only option. But, for a garment with a seam at the waist, you might like this new way better.

So, the issue that can arise with the regular inseam pocket is in getting the details right - measuring down properly, getting the pieces of the pocket bag lined up perfectly, getting the turn right, and clipping the bulk well. Many times, the pocket bag will gape if done wrong and if not tacked down, the bag will move around inside the garment and cause the bulkiness around it, especially with less stable fabrics. With this new method, you take out some of the difficulty and have a pocket that can support more weight, and stays put.

 I will start by showing you the video I made and then explain the steps in pictures below that for clarity! Excuse my amateur video skills!

Here are the steps for construction in pictures and with descriptions:

Step 1 - Draft a slightly different shaped pocket piece

I used the Drama Dress pocket piece from George and Ginger as my base, but any similar looking inseam pocket piece will do (you can even just freehand draw this if you choose). Grab a piece or two of scrap paper and lay your pocket piece on top. You will then extend the top of the pocket piece up as high as you want the pocket to be down from the waist seam. (I personally like my pockets higher as to not put the opening of the pocket right at the widest part of my hips as this tends to make any pocket gape.) You will also add about a half an inch extra at the bottom of the pocket opening. This is where the pocket will be sewn into the side seam of the garment. You can use a french curve for this step or just make a nice curve at the top and bottom following along with your base pocket piece.Your new finished pocket piece will look like this:

As you can see in the picture above, there is a rectangle of interfacing along the flat side of the pocket. The interfacing is not necessary, but definitely recommended. I used shapeflex interfacing. Then there is a smaller rectangle which will become the cut out of your pocket opening. The size of the smaller rectangle will depend on - 1. How long you want your pocket opening to be. and 2. The seam allowance will determine the depth of the rectangle. You should make the depth of the rectangle 1/8" larger than your seam allowance. The seam allowance on the dress I made was 3/8", so I made the rectangle 1/2" wide.

Step 2 - Cut Out Pocket Pieces:

Cut out 2 mirrored pocket pieces each, so 4 total pocket pieces.

Step 3 - Assemble Pocket

A. Lay 1 pocket piece right sides together with the front of the garment as seen below. If using interfacing, it will be put on top wrong sides together with the pocket piece.

B. Sew a rectangle shape starting at the top of where the bag opening will be, and ending at the bottom of the bag opening. See step 1 for guidance on the width of the rectangle.

C. Cut around the rectangle and snip in at the 90 degree corners being careful not to cut through stitching.

D. Optionally, you can flip the top pocket piece to the back, wrong sides together, and topstitch 1/8" away from the edge as seen below. Only stitch inside the rectangle cut out area.

E. Flip the first pocket piece out to the side, then lay the mirrored pocket piece on top right sides together - clip/pin.

F. Sew around the outer curved edge of the pocket bag being sure to stop sewing at the bottom of the curve as seen below.

G. Now turn the pocket bag right side out and align the edge of the second pocket piece with the side seams of the front of the garment an pin/clip.

All three layers will be pinned at the top and bottom of the pocket bag, but the cut out you sewed and clipped, will stay out of the way as seen below.

 H. Lay the back of the garment right sides together on top of the front and pocket bag pieces and pin/clip.

I. Sew down the side seam being sure to catch all 4 layers at the top and bottom sides of the pocket bag. You can push the cut out of the pocket in to be sure not to catch that part as you sew down the side seams (like I forgot to! :)).

You are done! Now you can press the side seams if desired or top stitch the back of the pocket at the side seam if you choose.

You may want to baste the top of the pocket to the top of the garment for ease of attaching it to the waist.

While this may look like a lot of steps, it's really just because I broke it down completely, once you try the method out, it will come together faster than it seems!

I hope this tutorial made sense and helps you in your sewing endeavors! Feel free to ask questions below if you need any additional help or clarification.

Happy Sewing!

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So Jess Sew - George and Ginger Runway Top/Dress Hack Mash

If you have seen this particular pattern before, you might realize that it looks different. It's hacked! You can see the pattern on the George and Ginger website HERE. While the part of the shirt is the same, the bottom half of the pattern has a band and then a gathered skirt to tunic or dress length. I chose to mash the bottom part with a basic shirt. I used the basic tank (which is actually free in the GG Facebook group files!)

The fabrics I used are both from Knitpop. The gray is a stretch velvet and the black is DBP (Double Brushed Poly).

So here's how I modified the pattern:

I used stretch velvet for the top and made it as per the pattern instructions except, I didn't line it, mostly to save fabric. And since the below the top is no longer a band, but a full shirt, bottom, I didn't want it to be two layers of fabric.

For the bottom I started by laying out the fabric (I used DBP for this) and putting the front band piece on top. I then used the free basic tank and aligned the bottom of the band with the narrowest part of the basic tank (at its natural waist). I then did the same for the back band pattern piece. See below!

The basic tank is a bit more loose fitting, so it's wider. I wanted this to be tighter fitting and be able to tuck it in if so desired. So you can see that the pattern piece is hanging off the side a bit in the pic below.

When attaching the bottom piece, I put it right sides together with the top gathered part since I omitted the lining. And then just hemmed the very bottom of the shirt.

Easy as pie right?!

You can find this pattern on the George and Ginger Website Here - The Runway Dress.

Let me know if you have any questions or comments

Happy Sewing!

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So Jess Sew - Ellie and Mac Be Bold + Pinsperation Upcycle

This post is part of the Ellie and Mac Summer Pinsperation event. What is a Pinsperation you might ask? That is finding a picture or "pin" from Pinterest that you like and trying to re-create the look. How did I do?! I used the Ellie and Mac, Be Bold pattern to recreate this off the shoulder striped look. An old shirt from my husband was the perfect way to make a fun quick shirt for next to nothing.

The Be Bold  is really a cute pattern. It also has options for a flounce at the neckline, a few different sleeve looks, and an elastic waist for a full dress. A perfect pattern to use up lots of woven fabric!

Using an already made rtw shirt makes this sew super fast. I started with a large sized mens shirt.

Laid the pattern on top to see the length and width needed. It was a little bit longer that the pattern, but the width was close. So I kept the side seams and hem the same and just cut out the top and armscyes.

*Use a ruler at the top to ensure you cut straight across. If you have a cutting mat, you can line up the shirt and ruler to ensure a straight cut.

Make sure to flip the pattern over to cut the opposite side out.

This was a short sleeved shirt, so I placed the pattern piece on top of the sleeve with the hem line near the short sleeve marking and cut the sleeve out. Remember since it's already sewn on the side, it's okay to leave the width of the pattern piece off the sleeve a bit.

 Then use the first sleeve to cut out the second for ease.

Finally, just use the pattern instructions to complete the shirt!

If using a larger sized shirt or making a smaller sized pattern, you might be able to cut out a flounce for the top too or make longer sleeves! No old husband shirts? Check out nearby thrift stores!

If you don't love the off the shoulder look, I have a friend who uses a shorter piece of elastic to pull the neckline onto the shoulders and it looks super cute too.

Click HERE to see this pattern on the Ellie and Mac Website. Have fun with your Pinsperations and Upcycles!

Happy Sewing!

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How to Dry Herbs

Do you grow lavender, thyme, mint, oregano, marjoram, tarragon, basil...or any other herb in your garden? Drying herbs is so easy and you can enjoy those flavorful or fragrant herbs year round by drying them at their peak flavor and scent.

This is thyme. Can you tell which is the store bought thyme and which is the home dried thyme? And the store bought time is not old! I just bough it a few months ago.

I remember the first time I used my own dried oregano in a recipe I had made many times before. The whole pot of jambalaya tasted better than it ever had. It's definitely worth it to dry herbs yourself, and it really doesn't take much time or effort.

Here is the process step by step:

1. Cut herbs from the garden.

For small leafed herbs like oregano, thyme, marjoram, etc... you want to cut the stems as long as you can so that they will be easier to handle and dry. You can bundle the smaller stems with a rubber band or twine. For larger leafed herbs like basil, you can cut the full stem, but you may want to just dry the leaves and not the whole stem too.

When should you cut your herbs to dry? Just before they flower. This is when they will be the best without being bitter.

Do you have to cut them before they flower, what if you missed it and the tops are blooming? Or what if you want to dry everything at once and one of the herbs isn't close to flowering yet? You can still dry them. I have done so and had good results. They may not be the best, but they still taste great and are fresher than you'll get from the store. Just be careful because the bees like them after flowering. And be sure to trim off the tops so you are only drying the leaves and stem.

2.  Wash the herbs.

Bring the cuts you made inside and give them a good rinse to get any bugs, dirt, weeds, or any other debris off.

If you have a smaller amount, you can just pat dry them off after rinsing. If you have a large amount, I suggest laying them out on clean dry cloths or paper towels to get excess water off. You could also use a salad spinner.

3. Decide how you want to dry them.

  There are a few different methods to dry the herbs at this point. You can hang them up to dry, lay them out to dry, or put them in a dehydrator.

For smaller amounts and stems or large leaves, I like using the dehydrator or at least laying the herbs out on the dehydrator shelves (without turning it on). Technically, allowing the herbs to air dry does preserve more flavor, but it takes longer. So if you have time, you can lay everything out on the dehydrator shelves and allow it to dry without turning the dehydrator on.Alternatively, set the dehydrator to it's lowest setting (mine is 95 degrees). If you leave the dehydrator off, it will take a few days to a week for everything to dry. If you turn the dehydrator on, it takes about 4 - 8 hours depending on the size of leaves and how much you pack into the trays. The leaves should crumble easily when dried completely.

If you don't have a dehydrator, you will just bundle the herbs in sections and secure them with a rubber band or twine. I like to hang up the larger herbs to dry instead of taking up dehydrator space anyway. Be sure to separate the herbs into small bundles so that the middle can dry before getting moldy.

Then just hang them up upside down in a dark place away from sunlight. I have hooks in my pantry that I loop the rubber bands around. If you want to save yourself a bit of mess, you can also place a paper bag underneath the bottoms or on the floor to catch bits of leaves that crumble before drying all the way.

4. Remove the leaves from the stems.

If you dried just leaves (sage, bay, basil), you can just put the whole leaves into a container. I find the flavor lasts longer if you crumble the leaves just before using. If you dried the plant stems and all, you will want to remove the leaves by sliding your fingers down the stems to break off each leaf into a bowl. On smaller leaves/stems, you may need to crumble the leaves off as the stems will break with this method.

Once you have removed all the leaves, then transfer them to a container for storage. You could technically put the leaves from the stems directly into a storage container, but in my experience, without a wide mouth receptacle, a lot of leaves will end up on the counter instead of in your container.

Whatever type of container you use, I suggest labeling it with, of course the name, and also the year. 

A few more tips:

For lavender, you want the purple flowers to be closed when you dry them. Cut the plant just above the leaves so that you are just getting stems.

Pictured below is thyme. I don't have a ton of edible thyme growing in my garden right now, but even if you have just a little, it will still taste better than store bought. So just dry what you have!

If you save a bunch extra, you can give small jars of dried herbs out as gifts for Christmas or another holiday that you celebrate.

Enjoy the extra flavor in your cooking!

How to Sew a Neckband on a Knit Garment

Attaching a neckband onto a garment is not difficult per se, but it does take some practice. Follow these steps, take it slow, and you'll get it down in no time. I have outlined the process for quartering and pinning/clipping the neckband in pictures, and then a video for how to sew/serge the neckband on. If using a sewing machine instead of a serger, it's the same process, just use a stretch stitch and you may just need to trim the seam allowance as a sewing machine won't do that for you. 

1.  First sew the short ends of the neckband right sides together. You should now have a large loop. Then fold wrong sides together along the whole length of the band. 

2. Quarter both the neck hole and the neck band. This is easily done by pulling opposing sides of the neckband taut, pinning or clipping, then pulling the opposite sides taut with the two previous clips/pins in the center. You should now have 4 clips/pins evenly spaced apart. The same method applies to the garment neck hole. Start by pulling the back and front of the neck band taut away from each other aligning the shoulder seams. Clip/pin the front and back points. Then pull the neckband by the sides with the previously clipped/pins touching eachother in the middle. Clip/pin the sides. 

3. Starting at the back of the garment, attach the seam of the neckband right sides together with the garment. Match up each of the 4 pins/clips all the way around the neckline. The band will sit on the outside of the neck hole and all 3 layers of fabric on the raw edges will be aligned.

4. Although this step isn't necessary, I highly recommend it for beginners or if your neckline is especially long. Pull the fabric between each clip/pin taut and pin in between the two clips/pins.

Once you have pinned/clipped all the way around, your neckband should look like the picture below.

5. You will now sew the neckband to the garment's neck hole. Start at the back of the garment with the neckband underneath the garment fabric, and sew or serge all the way around the neck hole stretching the band so that the garment fabric lays flat. Remove each clip as you go. See the video below for detailed instructions.